Days 121 to 130

My new bike finally arrived! It is gorgeous – as bikes go. Had the longest wait whilst trying to talk to the customs office in Astana. Had the invoice printed out, all other documentation and they took 2 hours to finally tell me that they wanted me to pay €600 import duties. Strange because I could have altered the invoice and gave the bike a lower price and they would be none the wiser. Anyway after getting them to accept payment I then could go and collect. My guide then found us a taxi driver who threw the box into an open boot, wedged the box in and drove back the university. My new pride and joy just waiting to fall off the back of the taxi and under the wheels of the cars behind. I was not happy until I unpacked it.

It took a few days before getting out on it, so I had to wait patiently. And when I did get out for a ride I was not disappointed. Sean lead most of the way to some random spot 30km from the university, then we turned round and headed back to the barn. First bit of cycling for 6 months and didn’t feel too bad. However, went out the next morning on a tour around Astana, but there was more of a head wind, which just eat at my energy. On the way back I thought we were making good progress and then a tyre blew. Had to perform an emergency repair, which is not the easiest with tubular tyres if they are the Continental brand. Thankfully Sean put it all right and managed to limp home. Wondering if I should have stuck with clincher tyres after all. Then the day after, I get a phone call early in the morning from Sean who went out again for a ride, blew a puncture and couldn’t repair it. So I had to get a taxi and a map and get our receptionist to tell my driver to head to one stretch of road and look for a stranded cyclist. We found him and got him back safely. Samaritan job done.

Busy week for work back in Brighton. Had to Skype in to partake in a viva for one of my final year students, but I think it helped her relax somewhat knowing that she had a supporter there. Then had a couple of guys from the UK for an EU project meeting in Astana. Actually this was quite cool for me, as I was able to catch up with the situation and recent developments. But also more work in the pipeline to deal with for other project’s back in Brighton. Hopefully it shows my willing and desire to eventually return. Also meant I got out for a couple of meals and some fancy steak. Though one restaurant booked by one of our female secretaries took us to a place called Alasha, where they had live dancing. But their last dance was belly dancing and it was very funny to watch the rest of the table forget their meals as the dancing girls banged their bottoms against the shoulders of some of guests. I have to find the more incriminating photos of the UK lot.

Was asked to give a talk at a local university to try and recruit students for the tentative PhD program. This was all fine until it finished. One of the NU group went off to the bathroom and didn’t return. We went looking for him and couldn’t find him. I said he’s probably gone home as he speaks Russian and knows his way around. 40 minutes later the secretaries finally locate his mobile phone number and sure enough he was tucked in at home. So then we start waiting for the minibus to pick us up and take us home. I said we should jump in a taxi because it is hot and the driver is having serious problems if he cannot remember where he dropped us off. An hour later the secretaries decide we should get a taxi back to NU. Was not happy when we arrived an hour later. 5 minute talk and several hours of frustration with people who do not listen!

Running is improving slowly. Not sure I had ever run 10km before, but managed it. Took just under 55 minutes, which is not earth shattering speed, but I do not recall having ever run for that long. So a personal achievement and it gives a benchmark to try and improve. But to go from 10km to 42.2km doesn’t seem possible somehow. Just wish they’d fix the air conditioning in the gym; running at 22+oC is rather uncomfortable though did have my family come and cheer me on, for about 10 meters and then they left for chocolate.

Been trying to get the Block 38 manager’s to realise there are a set of problems linked to potentially serious health & safety issues, but currently it’s water off the duck’s back. At least I can demonstrate persistence and will try and educate them to take it seriously, though I hold out no hope of them delivering a solution. I am very thankful that there is no gas piped through to any of the buildings.

Ali and the children have been fine. Think we’ve all been yo-yoing in and out of sickness and various ailments. Still, we have a lot of carbon black on standby. It could just be a placebo, but Rebekah enjoys taking these black pills, and she reckons it makes her feel better. So that’s almost the same thing as it being a panacea. I’m sure these black pills were made by Lily the Pink...

I also think the weekly trip to a Hardees is also helping. Rebekah and Matthias are becoming slightly more adventurous with them trying and liking Chicken Shashlik (essentially a kebab with local seasoning). Matthias is totally hooked on cheeseburgers now. That’s my son. Been trying to get Matthias to control his temper as he has taken to having near major episodes when he is asked to do something he does not like, such as please go and put your sock in the laundry bag – a major effort to tear him away from the iPad or Wii. It took me a while to figure out a solution. Given that Matthias has a keen memory and wont let you forget all the promises Ali and I make, I finally realised to turn that around. So I asked him to think very carefully about how he would talk to us in the future and how he will react when we ask him to do things. He made a promise to not shout and sulk. And now I can remind him that he promised and in an instant he remembers and changes his tone. If only I could have thought of this sooner!

Ray

Days 111 to 120

We had the Provost of NU, a gentleman from Wales, give a talk to our School. Was quite revealing in that some senior managers just view this venture as a ride. Oh, they can talk the talk. But without top down involvement, any developed strategies will peter away, leaving those who invested their lives and marriages and their children’s education wondering why did we bother again? Thankfully it is not every senior manager. Time will tell. There are a number of people who have indicated their intension to leave. Perhaps it is expressions of desires than actual commitments to leave.

Had a colleague Joe sing as part of a 2 Stars talent contest. One song in English and the other in Kazakh. One academic and one student. Was well attended by the students and a smattering of staff too. Kids enjoyed it and Matthias and Kyria went up with Joe when the results came in. The sound recording was not great, but the atmosphere hopefully carries through:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSs0_YmDNb8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtoJSwYJdFM

Attended a meeting to push the development of the PhD program through for School of Engineering. The meeting was quite positive, though we spent more time discussing the title of the PhD than the actual content.

Celebrated Sean’s birthday, a crazy triathlete from Australia. Children had lots of fun chasing balloons round someone else’s apartment. I tried desperately to get Sean to eat as much junk food as possible. He’s 6 foot tall and weighs a postage stamp and obviously needs fattening up to make it easier on me when my bike arrives.

Joe’s mum and sister came in from the USA bearing gifts. Kids very excited to get a giant jar of Jelly Beans. And we went back to a restaurant not far from where we initially stayed. Somewhat embarrassing though. We did not organise this get together at that restaurant but were keen to come along. Turns out that we had no Russian speakers in our party and there was no picture menu. So I had to text Kevin for assistance and he duly obliged, having remembered what Ali and I ordered several months previously. Just showed the waitress the text message and we were fine.

Running has been a challenge. Felt I was over-pronating, which was causing sharp pains around my ankles. Then felt very conscious about concentrating about how to run. Must have looked a right twerp, face screwed up in procrastination trying to look at my feet landing on the treadmill. They say running suddenly gets a lot easier. Cannot wait for that day.

Ray

Days 101 to 110

Switching from daily to block-of-days writing is much harder than I thought. Perhaps it is because of my tired brain trying to recollect what has been happening over the last 10 days (or so). Anyway, practise makes perfect – or leads to less mistakes – pick your adage.

Work continues with a mixture of potential hope and a modicum of frustration. I was asked to conduct a health and safety evaluation of a room to be used for experimental purposes and bearing in mind I have no formal training, there was no qualified electrician or fire officer either, I tried to ensure I could not be held liable. This government announcement of holidays at the end of the week and overlapping with the weekend is really confusing. This is also exam time and the schedule was drawn up months in advance. So there are colleagues who have to work during the holiday and are still expected to turn up for work on Sunday. Had a little tête-à-tête with a senior manager after it was announced that private taxis were banned from entering campus and the problems that would ensue, particularly for families. But it turned out they only meant gypsy cabs, though it didn’t stop some staff from experiencing problems trying to get on campus in uni hired taxis. In trying to sort out the frustrations, decided I should try and get on the Faculty Senate. A little more work, a lot more headaches I’m sure, but hopefully exposed to better communication.

I had a good score in a recent funding application, hopefully it will get funded. The other funding application was not submitted by the research office, much to my disappointment. It took several emails to finally get some answers. They could have avoided the rhetoric had the just admitted the problem in the first email rather than gloss over it. Don’t think Kazakhstani custom allows for admitting you were wrong, but try and point the blame elsewhere. So I ruffled a few feathers, but managed to smooth things over with the individual involved. The others need to learn how to communicate with me. I can get feisty and highlight their shortcomings; not a great attribute I grant you, but I am exhausted by the admittedly not-that-frequent incompetent actions of those in managerial roles.

This renting out the home remotely is not good for my anxiety levels. We have a great managing agent in place who is keeping on top of things. But they reported that damp patches are appearing on the chimney breast in the main bedroom. I had sealed and painted the chimney after it was skimmed and damp patches are now showing. Hopefully it is nothing more than the chimney needs a lot of time to dry out and I should have used a better sealant. And by trying to get on these problems straight away, hoping that the tenants feel happy they are being looked after.

Some good news. I had an MRI scan and they can confirm I have a brain! There’s nothing wrong with it either, so the cluster headaches I’m getting appear to have no root cause inside the skull. We’ve all been feeling a little under the weather. Not sure if it is a bug going round, but decided I would try the activated carbon remedy, which they use a lot in the former Soviet states. It does work too. Well worth getting a supply on standby for food poisoning, a lot of stomach complaints, radionuclear contaminated food, etc. Just got to get over the fear of eating a black pill.

I purchase a new pair of trainers and have to say... what a waste of money. I recently traded up my Nike Dart 9s (inexpensive) for a pair of Adidas Supernova Glide Boost (expensive). There’s almost no real difference in weight, thickness of padding. The Adidas are better fitting, supposedly with more stability control and bouncy material, but actually caused more painful issues during the run than the Nikes. It could be that I need time to get used to them, but I came across this report – alas after I made the purchase – which is well worth the read if you want to buy running shoes for running: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/moslive/article-1170253/The-painful-truth-trainers-Are-expensive-running-shoes-waste-money.html. Of course, it could be that the Nike Dart’s were an excellent pair of running shoes anyway. So I am still waiting for my bike to turn up. I now have the complete set of clothing and all the accessories were delivered late yesterday, so I am now prancing about in my fluoro gear and cycling shorts, but without a bike. I get some strange looks I can tell you. Very impressed with Parcel Force, which I had mentioned before. They appear to get through Kazakhstani customs quicker than any other foreign company. So whilst I am waiting, I am trying to build my fitness levels again by running and perhaps stupidly decided that training for running the marathon distance is a good idea – hence needing an expensive pair of running shoes, because there’s no way I am going to do all the hard work and need “The new BOOST™ foam with its unique energy capsules features a magical combination of functional benefits: Unlike any other foam it gives a soft and springy cushioning and feels ‘alive’. It energizes your running stride for more efficiency independent from the temperature and ensures maximum comfort.” What a fool I am. My hat is off to Ali who is diligently keeping up with her training regime for couch to 5k and she ran 25 minutes without stopping; please bear in mind she has never run for that long continuously.  

The weather last week was quite naff. It started snowing again and temperatures dropped into the negative centigrade region. Then it was blowing hurricane force winds, which had ripped apart aluminium sheet fencing round the building site next door. Very concerning that you could get sliced and diced. But we had braved the elements and Ali and Rebekah have been very cultured and went to ballet the other day to see Swan Lake. Nearly said Swan Walk, but only the Horshamites would get that and would not have been nearly as graceful either. They had a good time at the Astana Opera House and we thank Wynter and Jennifer for giving up their tickets. We’re now faced with the other 14 things to do on the top attractions of Astana list, which doesn’t make for great reading outside the top 3. Still, we are here so we are going to make the best of it.

Had a chance to lead worship last Sunday. Doesn’t help that my voice is low and therefore unsure beforehand whether anyone singing in the audible range are comfortable or straining. Still, the expat get together has become important to us. We’re faced with a lot of changes over the coming months with a number of people moving from Astana or leaving the area. But this is the group we feel we get the most out of for us and for the children. Definitely missing Kings fellowship, although WhatsApp lifegroup keeps us in touch.

Experienced our first water shortage. The taps went off late one day and didn’t resume for 24 hours. No notice and poor communication. We were told it was city wide and would only be a few hours. Then it was going to be all day. Turns out it was only our block, with no explanation as to why we were told otherwise. This is Kazakhstan.

Ray

Day 100

So after months of going out in the cold, we finally left our winter coats behind. Yet Astana seems to have skipped the spring and moved straight on to summer today as the children and I were positively stifling in our lighter jackets while out for the day today. The locals obviously really feel the cold and are still going about well wrapped up - that's why all their places indoors are so incredibly warm. On a very crowded (and very warm) bus today Kyria sat on the lap of a Kazakh lady (they either give up seats for children or invite them to sit on their laps!). This lady was obviously concerned that Kyria's thin cardigan was completely inadequate to protect her from the elements... I showed her the coat I was having to carry and tried to explain that it was simply too hot.  I'm sure they think we don't dress our children properly at all. Fortunately the American friends we were with had shorts and T-shirts so it's not just us who were warm. I know that once the real heat of summer hits I'll be longing for that -30 degrees C again. As Ray says... I'm never satisfied about the weather! Personally I think I'd be perfectly happy in a steady 15-20 degrees... Where should we live next?

Ali

Experienced a great get together of staff and faculty for a singing contest called Two Stars, where a member of staff and a student form a duo to sing 1 song in English and another in Kazakh. Happy to report that my office colleague won. Think the children really enjoyed it too. Matthias and Kyria went with Joe for the announcements so they got a moment in the limelight.

The student academic misconduct highlighted some interesting aspects of rules and whether to follow them. Cheating by bringing in notes into an exam is a serious offence. The rules are strict and yet it was the view of the managers that the punishment for the student should not directly or indirectly lead to the expelling of the student. It was their first crime and therefore the student received a lesser punishment and a warning. I am still trying to gauge whether this is a good thing or not. The student showed no remorse other than they got caught. The student is done a disservice as they knew full well it was wrong to cheat. Other students are also done a disservice as this sends the wrong message. Plus the two strikes and you're (possibly) out for serious offences does not happen in the real world, so this does not help students learn for the future.

Anyway, chocolate helped ease the frustrations. That is until I got an email from HR, which stated that new Kazakhstani holidays have been announced and so our working week has been altered. I now am required to work from the 4-11 May, in exchange for getting 1-3 and 7-10 May off. It's not a hassle, but it is just another reminder of T.I.K. (this is Kazakhstan). If we don't like it, then quit. Trouble is I've heard that some people are going to, not as a result of this holiday rearrangement, but just the combination of events since Christmas without any sign of improvement. However, 100 days in and I am feeling a little more relaxed about the situation. It could all change within an instant. Someone quipped that if the President passes away and the number 2 guy takes over then pack your bags and get on a flight home. But if the number 3 guy gets the top spot then just get on a flight home.

Happy Easter everyone.

Ray

 

ps. San Diego, Ali?

Day 99

Our new view

Almost there. Just one more day and I'm done. The weekend that is and not the 100th post.

Was in a lot of back-to-back meetings today. Was able to confront my Head of Discipline on a few issues. Also raised a whole load more with the Provost. I think I kept my tongue under diplomatic control, so I probably keep my job a little longer. Plus I got an evaluation score back today via the US; the university uses Oak Ridge Associated Universities to evaluate all internal proposals and I scored above the funding threshold. So I should be in line to get my first project up and running here. Just waiting on the second result to come through and a few others I've been involved with.

We received the report from the investigation of the piece of marble nearly hitting our kids. It turns out that it was not from an external tile broken away, but from inside the building on the 9th floor and was thrown by person(s) unknown. It also transpires that the supervisor dealing with building/construction work was not present either. So the university has taken a very strong stance against the construction company and demanded that they identify those responsible in order to hold them to account. We keep reminding ourselves that thankfully this careless discarding of masonry out of the 9th floor did not end up with anything serious happening.

No leaf unpolished

Just got to survive to the end of a student's academic misconduct hearing tomorrow and I'm free to relax over the Easter weekend. Must plan a treasure hunt for the kids. And hope the cleaning staff don't remove any items. They are thorough.
 

Ray

Day 98

To apply for head of school position or not? Difficult question to answer. I am not a chemical engineer, so if I were to get it would that expose the school to difficulties. However, with the current set-up, things are not going great either. Lack of direct experience in head of school role, but have been through most academic procedures. At least for all other parts of the role, I can do without too many difficulties. So I guess it comes down to whether the Dean would take me seriously. And also whether I would have power to make changes or simply have to toe the line.

We moved! I think Ali is completely fed up with moving now. 3 times this year. At least this is a bigger place, better utilisation of the space. They had the radiators not working properly, so were on full blast for many months without anyone checking. Had to have the tiles in the en suite bathroom removed as they were hanging off the wall. But atleast they were able to sort things fairly quickly. And checking out of the other apartment was very straight forward and not as daunting as I could have imagined it.

Well, we have flights confirmed for Ali and the children to go back to the UK at the end of June and I will head along a couple of weeks after. It is still a strange set-up that I have a limited amount of time for holidays and expected to stay put in Astana with very little to do during the Summer before and after my holidays are used. I cannot even get away to do some research, which is rather depressing. Still Summer should be fun albeit busy driving around the country (if I remember how) trying to catch up with everyone.

I wonder if culture shock with the UK will hit us. Probably not this Summer. Very much looking forward to a few curries and roast dinners; the Phillips family sent through some needed supplies. I am not sure what I am more excited to see. The bar of Toblerone or the Paxo Stuffing! Thank you all.

Very excited also to see some Easter-y things appear in some shops. It is all within a Russian Orthodox setting, but its presence is appreciated. Decorating eggs must be a big thing in the USA as I have had several American colleagues all talk about having egg paint available for the children. I'm sure that a lot of them are not interested in the origins of Easter though. I could be and hope I am wrong.

Ray

Day 97

And so we are ready to move again... Perhaps we should open a removal company one day or a packing/ unpacking service! At least it gives us a chance to have yet another clear out... It's amazing what junk we can accumulate in just a few weeks. 

In school we finished reading The Snow Queen, prompted to see how it compared to the movie 'Frozen'. And then spent a while decorating some eggs. My egg-blowing attempt was a disaster so ended up hard boiling them after all and since half the box was already cracked there weren't a lot left! A second attempt required after the move I think. 

Ali

Partially moved into a new apartment. Lots more room, but what a pain trying to clear everything after 4 weeks on the 4th floor. Kids have been great moving a few items at a time and enjoying the potential of fun and well mannered frolicks on the 10th floor.

Somewhat knackered at present. Whole family went down to Block 21 and I went on to the gym. Ran for an hour, which I have not done for a fair few decades. My legs are not happy with me.

Ray